Eduardo Vargas, Restaurateur and Chef at Balthazar

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We've just seen you open three new venues. What goes through your mind when you create new concepts?

What I usually do is find the spaces and evaluate, so it always depends on the clientele and the area. In the case of Balthazar, we found a 1930s' house and we had to renovate the entire thing - the floor, the staircases, the ceilings, etc. We felt that because it was in the French Concession and a French house, a French brasserie would be very suitable.

What do you think about the food scene in Shanghai?

When I came eight years ago, there were only an eighth of the restaurants that are here now. I think that the Chinese people are ready for these restaurants - the biggest amount of students who study abroad are Chinese; there are maybe 5 million studying abroad now, and they start having more international exposure. When they come back here they start seeking that same international experience.

What do you find difficult about working in Shanghai?

The most difficult part is that I'm very bad with finances and accounting, and another very difficult part here is keeping the consistency right. One day your food is fantastic, the next day it's lacking. You're always working with people who change and who move. Nothing in China counts the first time you try it. Whenever you want to do something, it is never smooth; you have to do things three times before it is okay. Something that is supposed to be so simple can be so complicated.

Have you always studied to become a chef?

I actually went to Georgetown University to study Economics because my father wanted me to study there. You know, The Exorcist movie was made in Georgetown and my first house was next to the cemetery where it was made. It was kind of scary because my bedroom faced the cemetery - I didn't know this when I moved in!

On special occasions, what did your mum used to cook you?

Suckling pig, a whole baby lamb roasted, marinated in dark beer, garlic, oranges. Amazing ceviche with fresh peach, sweet potatoes, corn and cilantro.

What do you do enjoy Shanghai?

I get out of here! I travel.